Live from Israel

the Last Day

2006-01-02T18:35:00.000-08:00

The truth is that what we most wanted to do on the last day in Israel was to play and do last minute touring and shopping and noshing in Tel Aviv. The weather was absolutely gorgeous:warm, bright, sea breeze. The great outdoors don't get much nicer than this. Some of the group went to Independence Hall, where the Israeli Declaration was signed and the Palmach Museum, the Diaspora Museum, and the Jaffa Artists' Colony.

It was also time to shut suitcases, filled with tchatchkes, jewels, beach bags, books, and dirty clothes: lots of dirty clothes. We all felt sad as we zipped up the bags, because this was such a successful trip. The group of wonderfully disparate men, women and children just naturallly cohered. We connected and communicated. There was never a forced march mentality. Everyone felt that they were considered as important participants in this long and amazing exploration. None of us will be the same after this trip. Our Jewish repertoires are broadened, and so enriched. We have all been touched in ways we never imagined. We've seen the ancient past and we've seen the future, a dynamic, brilliant future.

We saw lots of problems: ameliorating the needs of Eithiopian Jews and Russian Jews. Making peace with the Palestinians. Building bridges between the ultra-Orthodox and militantly secular Jews. Growing the Reform movement in hostile places. Making ethical decisions in trying and extreme circumstances.

We saw lots of valiant efforts at changing the status quo: Rabbis for Human Rights, the Leo Baeck School, Kol Hanishamah... and so much more.

Our final dinner was a testimony to the things we've seen and the fellowship we've experienced.

So to all the participants on this most recent TBA trip to Israel: kol hakavod! We did it! Welcome home!

To all thosewho have read this blog: thanks for keeping up with us. It's your turn next.

Tel Aviv Touring: the last days

2006-01-01T21:52:00.000-08:00

No one really wants to complain about the pace and the activities of our trip: it’s difficult to say with a straight face that touring Israel in a big bus, going to great sites and staying in 5 star hotels (except for the Dead Sea Golden Tulip…), is hard work. But I got to say: I am really tired. We’re all a bit road weary and I think pretty resigned to our imminent return. We are in Tel Aviv today in the David Intercontinental Hotel, the best of the hotels we have stayed in. Big, immaculately clean, close to everything, and a striking view of the Mediterranean Sea. In fact, the view out my window is truly breathtaking. The city’s tall white hotels and office buildings shine brightly and reflect the light coming off the sea.

When we arrived in the big T-A, we strolled over to the Carmel Market, a very big, open air marketplace, to find some lunch. The area was memorable. The stink and the filth was by far in a league of its own, surpassing Mahane Yehudah in Jerusalem exponentially. So much garbage lying around, so many beggars panhandling, so… dirty. I know Americans are way over the top obsessed with cleanliness and germs. But even given that: feh!

After checking in and unpacking – again! – we made our way to the old city of Jaffa, which is becoming an increasingly impressive artists’ colony. We wandered about this very picturesque place at a very slow pace as traveller’s fatigue set in. Stumbling back to the bus, we toppled out at the hotel and ‘forced’ ourselves to clean up for a great dinner on our own.

Happy New Year

2005-12-31T14:27:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year from Eilat! What a trip to be here to ring in the new. This may be the only city in Israel that even vaguely acknowledges Dec 31st as anything special at all. Whether this is because of the large number of tourists or the generally nonobservant Jewish population, it’s hard to be certain. All I can say is that it was truly special.

Actually, Shabbat morning in Eilat is a different kind of experience in and of itself. There’s not much in the way of services happening. Instead it’s a lot of lounging by the pool, Boardwalk walking, some shopping, scuba diving: vacation, plain and simple. So I guess it works as a Shabbat experience: shavat va’yenafash the prayer says: pause and refresh. There’s a lot of refreshing goin’ on in Eilat…

The whole group did their own thing on Shabbat, including a special side trip to the mysterious city of Petra, in Jordan. I did not go with the Jordan gang, but the review of the day trip was a total thumb’s up from all of the tired but gratified participants. Just getting a passport with the Jordan stamp is a thrill in and of itself.

Almost the entire TBA clan gathered at 9pm at the Boston Fish Restaurant. Yes, believe it or not, we found the only restaurant in Israel with a map of Brookline in the Ladies Room… While it’s not Legal’s or Skipjacks, Boston Fish isn’t a bad place at all. They set up 38 chairs outside on the boardwalk with some outdoor heaters to take the chill off night breeze coming in off the Red Sea. We were all comfortable and happy to be together after a long day apart from each other.

The meal was wonderful, even if the service moved at a snail’s pace. There was a live band outside playing good jazz standards. As we approached the midnight hour we all grabbed our champagne and stood on the boardwalk as every big hotel started shooting fireworks. It’s true that they were no match for the Boston Garden display, but we were VERY close to the action and loved it!

Shortly after midnight the band was packing up to go. That’s when our very own Bill F (aka Billy Beduoin) stepped up to the keyboards and started playing! This drove the TBA gang wild and pretty soon the party was on! We danced and hollered until around 2.

Bouncing Around Eilat

2005-12-30T13:11:00.000-08:00

We had fantasies of Eilat: warm, sunny, comfy, spa-like, and just flat out fun. Fun it is: warm, it ain't. This is not a complaint: the sun is out shining over the Red Sea. However, it is definitely chilly at night and not balmy during the day. They are predicting 84 degrees tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath... much.

So out into the cool morning we went, splitting into 2 groups: the first one went for a hike into the mountains with our great guide, Ya'ara. The rest took a jeep excursion into the mountains of Eilat. I thought my fillings were going to pop out of my head it was so jarring. I've driven in some steep mountain country before, but never in a 4 wheel drive ancient jeep. And never with exactly the central casting choice for the Israeli jeep driver. Yosa was a grizzled guy, skinny, baked by the sun, macho, and really smart. Man, this guy knew everything about the history, geology, topography, botany, and politics of Eilat. Yosa spoke 7 languages, quoted relevant Biblical references, made us laugh, and scared us out of our minds. In other words, we loved it.

The jeep caravan dropped us off at the famous Eilat underwater observatory. Besides all of the usual cool aquarium stuff they possess, this ploace has a large building out in the Red Sea anchored to the sea floor. By going down into its base, which is all windowed, you can see the fish truly in their natural element. It's a great place.

Of course there's gotta be shtick, and there in the Coral Reef section of the aqarium is a guy in a wet suit and scuba gear right in the tank standing next to a menorah. He wants to 'light' the menorah, so he pulls out the 'candles' (plastic something or other). He then reaches in his bag and pulls out a knit kippah which he bobby pins to his head in the tank!

Ok, it gets better. He invites the crowd to join him in reciting the candle blessings. And no one joins him. In this humiliating moment, not one person, man, woman, or child, wants to participate in this bizarre activity. It is 1130 in the morning, which makes it odder still. The young beautiful Israeli woman on the other side of the tank is trying to make it work, and she is utterly humiliated, doesnt know what to do. She doesnt know the second blessing by heart (she'asa nissim), or if she does she starts to blank -- and no one comes to her aid.

I couldnt figure out if Israelis are more discerning of the ridiculous, or if they thought it was profane and slightly blasphemous or if they didnt know the words, either, or most likely a combo of them all. It was a moment...

We returned to the hotel, a good deal nicer than the Golden Tulip, and all of us pretty much collapsed after some lunch. Shabbat dinner was a huge and I mean a huge feast the likes of which I havent experienced before for a small group. As we sang Shalom Aleichem I thought of all the people singing the same shabbes song all over the world. We are all so connected in so many ways.

The TBA travellers have found that connection and it is precious indeed. SHabbat Shalom and see you soon!

Ein Gedi to Eilat: We cover the South

2005-12-29T15:44:00.000-08:00

No one wept as we left the Golden Tulip Hotel overlooking the Dead Sea. Service was mediocre, the clientele was noisy and just plain rude, the rooms had the odor of tobacco so ingrained in the fabric and plaster and sheets that the no smoking signs smirked, and, well, that's enough, I suppose.

We hiked this morning to the natural springs of Ein Gedi, an oasis in the midst of the Negev right smack dab on the African-Syrian Rift. The hike was beautiful and leisurely and all of us loved it. As we approached the springs and the waterfalls that feed them, we were overtaken by a girls' yeshiva from J-lem. They appeared to be young teens, and ALL of them wore long black dresses and top o' the line Nikes, Pumas, Adidas, etc. Yes, they were 90% American girls doing a semester of Torah. They contrasted sharply with our girls.

That's the thing about being in Israel: so many Jews of so many differrent colors and values and religious practices. I want to write a fieldbook that describes all the possibilities. But I digress and my internet is on an hour timer and ticking...

After frolicking at the Ein Gedi springs we returned to our big bus and continued on the Kibbutz Yahel. Founded by Reform Jews in 1977, it is the first Reform kibbutz -- ever! It's changed so much since the first heady months and years of ideolgical turmoil. But, like the kibbutz movement itself, there's been lots of morphing and conforming and evolving to where they are now. We had lunch and celebrated Celia's 13th birthday on the kibbutz then headed into the pomello fields to hear about the strange fruit that keeps the kibbutz going and the Jordanians who live on the other side of the fence. Ron Bernstein, the pomello man, gave a short but very memorable speech about life at Yahel and life in Israel. He talked about making peace in a beautiful and inspiring way. I hope he will visit us at TBA. By the way, he peeled the pomello in a most unique manner: our kids wore pomello hats while enjoying the fruit.

From Kibbutz Yahel we drove to Eilat where I am finishing the blog for today. The group is happy and content and very comfortable. Our bonding is complete and so great! We've had the best moments together and look forwaqrd to more as we begin the last days of the sojourn. Our suitcases are increasingly hard to shut but we'll happily manage. No one's homesick, which is the best of signs.

2005-12-28T12:49:00.000-08:00

I am exhausted. Up and down Masada. Ein Gedi Springs. Just wrote a long blog entry that disappeared.

But...

I have to report on the amazing moment the group shared on Masada.

Way up on top of this mountain in the middle of the desert where Herod built his winter palace and 1000 Jews committed suicide rather than surrender tyo the Romans is an ancient synagogue. It was built by the Zealots in the 1st century. In that synagogue is a room double locked and in that room is a safe with an ark cover over it. With the right keys I opened it and pulled out a Torah. Can i tell you what it's like traipsing across Masada with a Torah in my hands? The overwhelming feeling of somehow continuing a process? Of doing a bold new thing?

I can't describe it. It was too new, too intense, too overdetermined... Walking into the room where the TBA group was waiting, and seeing their eyes as i entered with that scroll. It couldve been a thousand years ago -- 2 thousand years ago. To see the excitement and the joy in their faces.

We made a ceremony honoring our most recent Bat Mitzvah, Monique and our next Bat Mitzvah, Halley. Standing on one side of the room were all those who already had a Bar/t Mitzvah. On the other, those kids and adults who never had one. I had all the TBA post Bar Mitzvah celebrants line up and pass the Torah to Monique, who then gave it to Halley who held it as all the younger kids touched the Torah. Talk about symetry and a perfect moment.

I then asked the non-Bar/t Mitzvah adults a question: Is anyone ready to declare that they are ready to commit to the next adult B'nei Mitzvah class? No pressure, really. Just 2 thousand years of history swirling through the air. Reesa, Suzanne, Deborah and Michele and John stepped up. How amazing was that?

These are the moments that reminds one that occasionally a group trip can change your life. Every day.

a full day

2005-12-27T23:04:00.000-08:00

As we finished packing our bags to leave J-lem , we realized it was harder to close them than it was at the beginning of our journey. We’ve all been collecting treasures: spices, dried fruits, jewelry, artwork, zibben-zachen, and who knows what else… It’s been such an honor, a thrill, a joy, and a darned good time touring Israel. And we still have a week’s worth of exploring to do.

So we hit the road and headed for our first stop, a JNF forest where we were to plant trees. Actually our first stop is generally a bathroom along the way. Our group doesn’t exactly have the best bladder capacity… Anyway, we were met at our planting site by Susan Horowitz, a former member of the temple who made aliyah almost 8 years ago. Susan, by the way, sends her love to everyone back at the ranch.

It would be fair to say that no one in the group initially thought of this stop at a JNF forest as a particularly emotional experience. Planting a tree in Israel is a quintessential Jewish act. We’ve been doing it vicariously over the decades by putting coins in the pushke, collecting dimes in slotted sheets to make the shape of a tree, etc. So this time we were actually, literally getting dirt on our hands.

We arrived at the JNF forest because Steve and Reesa had planned some time ago before we got to Israel to dedicate the forest named in memory of their dad/father-in-law, Norman A. What a good idea to include all of us in that and then do some planting! Only at the forest Steve and Reesa were going to, there were no more spots for planting. So we couldn’t join them for the ceremony but we could plant in another spot.

As has been mentioned before, there are lots of tourists in Israel over this holiday season. Israelis are shaking their heads in disbelief, overjoyed that somehow a pall has been lifted and suddenly there is excitement and hope again. So their were crowds of congregations and missions at our planting spot and a Sephardic guy in a suit making holes in the ground with a planter’s pick. The scene was frenetic and exciting and just a bit surreal.

As we finished planting, we gathered together as a group to each declare for whom they planted their trees. As we assembled another congregation’s cantor began singing in a booming cantorial tenor, El Maleh Rachamim, the prayer chanted at the conclusion of a funeral. This struck me, at least for our group, as the absolute wrong note to leave the forest on. After all, yesterday we were at Yad Vashem, remembering the Holocaust. That’s a place where El Maleh should be chanted every day until the end of time. But we were here in this grove where one day our children and grandchildren will visit and long after we’re gone, the beauty and nobility of planting these trees will endure. So we remembered the people, living and deceased, for whom the trees were planted, and then said, not Kaddish, but Shehechiyanu.

The next stop for our group was Beit Guvrin, an archeological site where we had the opportunity to actually dig and find shards of pots and containers from the 2nd century BCE. A sub group formed to go spelunking, crawling on all fours through one of the many caves in the vicinity of the dig. We claustrophobes hung back, but young and old, big and small adventurers went for the crawl. As always, the meek are told what was missed, and it did sound great. We finished up with a take-out delivery of pizza and felafel to a nearby picnic grove, filled with us – and hundreds of young Israeli soldiers on their own educational field trip.

From Beit Guvrin we wound our way through the mountains as green hills gave way to the Negev, the desert region of Israel. The stark change in topography is magnificent and inspiring. The roads are steep and at points precipitous.

Outside Arad, we came to a funky Bedouin village for tourists, kind of like Storyland. Here we were greeted by the tents and the desert breeze, and the aroma of camels and donkeys. Yes it was time to mount up! What a trip!! Young and old climbed aboard (my camel glanced at my girth and choked on his cud…). To her everlasting credit, Bev H. really tried to get on a donkey. But swinging her leg around the side seemed just a bit too difficult. But it was something!

After our ride (only one near accident where apparently Eggo pulled the saddle the wrong way and we almost had a runaway TBA family), we had a great explanation of Bedouin life by a real Bedouin man. As he told us of his culture we were served sweet tea and bitter coffee (sweet like a woman, bitter like marriage, he said…?), as we reclined on cushions. Following his lecture we had a Bedouin dinner sitting on the floor. We used hands and pita and it was a blast.

Finally we boarded our bus and came to the Golden Tulip, a rather suspect ‘luxury’ hotel jammed with Israeli families on vacation. They are the noisiest assemblage of humans I have ever been around! It’s stunning just how loud and present they can be… We got here tired, happy and it’s fair to say, more cohesive than ever. Our group is just that: men and women and children of TBA who together share a common experience and celebrate it.

Tomorrow is Masada!

it's the last night in J-lem and we're feelin bad

2005-12-26T19:27:00.000-08:00

As I walked back to our hotel today from Mahane Yehudah, the Jewish market, I felt a great exhilaration. To be here in this old/new city, filled with the wise and the wicked, the good and the bad, the whole and the broken, I can hardly even explain how amazing, how profoundly intense it all is. It's the confluence of opposites, the yin and yang blurring boundaries.

The mystical presence of the Holy One can pervade one's consciousness, even at a felafel stand. Really!

Today we began with a late wake up call. This makes the group very happy. We went to Yad V'Shem, the national Israeli memorial center to the Holocaust. What a spectacular place... It's been completely re-designed, and to great effect. The exhibits, the interviews, the graphics, the flow of the architecture, it's all stunning. And so sad, so painful. One gets just how close to the soul the Holocaust remains for the Jewish people. And one sees just how much it still plays a part in Israeli life and politics.

It was gratifying that our kids on the trip -- and their parents, wanted to take time at the beginning to hear from me and from our guide just how it all began. And while it's impossible to give a true answer, because there is no answer to the questions how and why, we must struggle to become familiar with the facts as we have them.

After a long time at Yad VaShem, we had a quiet service and left. We went across town to the old Jewish market, Mahane Yehudah and had a blast. All the spices, nuts, fruits, tchachkes, it's wild! After Yad Vashem we appreciated jumping back into life and its excitement.

Sadly it's time to leave J-lem. I could come to Israel and stay here for 2 weeks -- even with the rain. There is just so much to do and not enough time to do it. We're bound for the Dead Sea tomorrow, so no one's complaining. But I am sad to be leaving my favorite city in the world. At least i had lunch in one of my favorite old haunts: the Shemesh restaurant. So take care my beloved readers. See you at the lowest point on earth tomorrow.

walking in the rain

2005-12-25T23:24:00.000-08:00

Ok. It didn’t rain on us today. It poured! Dogs and cats. Sleet and hail. You name it and it came down. We started off early this morning to explore the fascinating tunnels below the western quadrant of the Temple – or at least, where the Temple once stood. It was chilly and cloudy but not raining. But by the time we exited the tunnels, having seen the Herodian stones of the holy Temple and some of the extraordinary evidence of a remarkable culture, the rain was on.

Despite the early rains we got the chance to explore the Western Wall and put notes in the cracks and crevices of the stones of the wall. And though I’ve been there before, touching those huge Herodian stones, putting my cheek to the cold wall, just plain does something to me and for me. I sense in that moment a kind of symbiotic melding. I know that there are those who think the worship at the wall can be a bit obsessive. I agree. There are even those who call it idolatry. But what can I say? There is something special that happens at the Kotel.

Other stops included the Davidson Museum, a small place with a nice presentation about the workings of the temple (and a brief movie with an actor made up to look like a first century Jew; unfortunately the tight budget restrictions makes him appear to be from Planet of the Apes…). We saw the great steps leading up to the Hula Gate from David’s City and so many places and stones that all underscore and evidence the thriving, huge, religious life of our ancestors.

We spent the next chunk of time in the Seibenberg home. http://www.jerusalem.muni.il/jer_sys/picture/atarim/site_form_atar_eng.asp?site_id=345&pic_cat=4&icon_cat=6&york_cat=9
This diamond magnate retired to Jerusalem after the 6-Day war and built a magnificent, huge home. He had a hunch that there was something in the basement. Actually, under the basement. And so, despite the word of archeologists that there couldn’t be anything there, he spent a fortune on digging out the basement and, of course, found a magnificent home under his own from 2nd temple times… amazing. Mrs Seidenberg herself gave us the tour in her damp, dripping basement. Half the fun was listening to her tell the story and show slides…

We left the Seidenberg home en route to the Cardo, the Jewish Quarter market and tchachke center and lunch. That’s when it poured again. We were officially soaked. But we couldn’t bear the thought of foregoing the shopping. So we scattered for lunch and then found our way back to the shopping and had a ball – a very damp ball, but a good time was had by all.

Tired and soggy but high spirited, we returned to the hotel and hung out before a fab dinner at a place called the Fish and the Olive. After dinner we mounted up and headed to a first night of Hanukkah with hundreds of other Reform Jews on tour. That was a nice event which was followed by a concert by Shlomo Gronich and his Ethiopian choir. It was exciting, stirring music: contemporary, passionate, wonderful.

Shabbat

2005-12-24T12:27:00.000-08:00

Today the group had a restful Shabbat. No buses, no lining up, no group tours, just individual adventures... Of course most of the group headed for the Old City and ended up hanging out.
The group has quickly and wonderfully gelled; like magic.

The one little piece for today is the wonderful feeling of sitting in the lobby of the Inbal Hotel and watching all the different kinds of Jews. We could have used a field guide. Hasidim, very Orthodox, modern Orthodox, Conservatives, Reform, and who knows what else... all in the lobby, the coffee shop, etc. All Jews... what a feeling.

anyway, more tomorrow.

Gezer -- Not Just a Carrot & Jerusalem -- of course

2005-12-23T07:38:00.000-08:00

It is warm and wonderfully gratifying that so many of you are checking in on the blog. It makes me feel connected to you all.
Yesterday morning we boarded the bus and said shalom to Haifa. Interesting weather: it was raining on the left side of the bus and dry on the other side. Seriously. But then again, the weather has been portentous and a harbinger of good things from the start of the trip.

We motored in the rain towards Jerusalem to a most interesting spot which I'd never visited before. Kibbutz Gezer, a cool place founded largely by Anglo immigrants, helps sponsor a Jewish Roots Foundation dedicated to exploring how Israel plays a critical, deep and foundational role in how we define ourselves as Jews. So this means that for Jews from abroad, the Gezer site puts Israel back into the Jews and for Israeli visitors, it puts the Judaism back in the Israeli.

The director of the program is a funky American named David Leichman, a New York borne, Berkeley educated, funky kind of guy. He is a master teacher in the truest sense and had all of us really turned on to our connections to Israel and our Jewishness all together. In other words, he helped us truly integrate the experience of visiting Israel with the deepest aspects of our self identity as Jews. He was that good.

The food wasn't bad either. In fact, as a general rule, the food's been great!

From Gezer we made our ascent to Jerusalem. What a stirring trip. In a bus filled with modern day pilgrims making our way to the holiest city in the world. I was struck once again with the sheer joy of being part of this great crew so many of whom are here for the first time. As we approached our first stop in J-lem, I was filled with so many poignant thoughts, and how this visit to Israel in a sense draws a kind of completing circle around each of us, a kind of fulfillment of a personal and transcendently national dream.

We got off at a scenic overlook in the city with a majestic view of the Old City and the new western J-lem. I think we were all a bit overwhelmed. We were also a bit cold: it was a chilly 39-41 degrees. But undaunted we gathered, heard a psalm reminding us that the love we bring in our hearts for Israel showers love on all its inhabitants. We drank a l'hayim and then holding hands we sang shehechiyanu together. It was a truly singular moment. As I told the group, from now on, whenever you say a shehechiyanu, this one will be there, always returning as one of the benchmarks of the prayer. We turned and there, over the Judean Hills, a rainbow! Another rainbow. Now that is what I call the divine AMEN!!!

After spending an hour at our hotel, we boarded our bus to the Reform synagogue Kol Haneshamah in J-lem led by Rabbi Levi Kelman. He's a cool rabbi. He dresses in an open collared white shirt and white chinos and sandals. He looks like a camp director. He's a very smart and talented guy who is helping move Reform in Israel closer to the center of the Jewish world.

The music? Essentially 80% of the music is exactly what we do! So go figure how one part of the movement touches another. It underscores the dimensions of Reform and that the whole world of Reform grows collectively as well as individually. We had a lovely time at the synagogue, I must say.

We had a great Shabbat dinner at the hotel, then all of us went back tour rooms to pass out. Shabbat morning is wide open, some of us sleeping late, some going out to daven, all having a fab time.

So from all of us, shabbat shalom!

Day 3 the Golan and tzefat

2005-12-22T14:37:00.000-08:00

Today the intrepid TBA Tour hit the road and went north. We moved up the coast and ventured inland to arrive at the great city of Tzefat (or Safed as it is spelled in English). This holy city is the home of some astonishing moments in Jewish history. Although even as I type that I realize how absurd that statement is in Israel… The littlest corner of the smallest village could be a place where an ancient Israelite tilled the soil, a Roman designed a mosaic, a rabbi discussed Torah with a few disciples, a Mohammedan bowed to Allah, a Crusader sharpened his sword, an Ottoman made a real estate deal, an Israeli built a house. The truth is that history is everywhere on the ground, under the ground, in the imagination. It can be tricky, political and complicated. It’s always interesting.

In Tzefat we had the chance to see the work of a young American/Israeli neo-kabbalist, as well as studios and workshops of countless other artists. We shopped around on our own and had a chance to see a couple of famous synagogues and hear stories about the great Rabbi Isaac Luria, one of the founders of a school of Jewish mysticism. We also got the chance to come to one of the places where the famous song, Lecha Dodi was composed and chanted in the 16th century. It was very inspiring.

After our mystical adventures we boarded our bus on the wings of eagles and moved further north to the Golan Heights. We ended up on Bental Mountain, looking at the fortifications built by Israeli troops who captured the Golan in 1967. We could easily see the very close proximity of Syria and the ways in which they could make life a misery for the Israeli farmers. We also ran through some cool Israeli bunkers and marveled at the ingenuity of our guys.

It was cold up there on the mountain. Nott that we’re complaining. We haven’t had fantastic weather. On the other hand, at least it’s been comfortably cool. That may change in Jerusalem tomorrow. We’ll see.

Leilah tov.

Day 2 We go north

2005-12-21T18:50:00.000-08:00

///Breakfast in Israel is the best meal of the day, and we feasted this morning at the Dan Carmel restaurant. Salads, eggs, yogurt, cheeses, fresh breads, fresh juice, fish, potatoes... a lot of food.

I knew we were in for a lucky day -- no a lucky 2 weeks! Because on our way to the first stop we saw a fabulous double rainbow, one end which literally dipped into the Mediterranean Sea. Gorgeous!

Our first stop was the Leo Baeck Center, a very creative, innovative education center. It's a high school, a learning center, a curriculum development workshop, etc. We actually have done some work with the Leo Baeck Center. Erica Fox, our family educator coordinates a classroom-to-classroom curriculum program that's been quite successful. I just want to describe where we met for our discussion with the spokespeople from Leo Baeck. We gathered in a memorial room. Every school, every major institution apparently has a room or a corner of a building -- somewhere -- to memorialize the folks connected to that school or hospital or branch of government who have been killed in war or in terrorist attacks. At the Leo Baeck center, they have a DVD that plays continuously, I think, showing photos of students and teachers, their names and their ages at the time of their deaths. There must have been 20 of them. So young, so promising, so very sad.

I thought that, as sad as it was, it was a typically Jewish way to start our tour. There is much sadness in our history and we must honor our dead through deeds that seek to make a positive impact on the world. We mourn and we move forward.

Our next stop was in Tziporri, an ancient Jewish/Roman city that dates back to before the first century. We looked at the first of lots of ruins and excavations. Our guide, Ya’ara, dressed up and played out the part of Sarah, the maid to a famous 3rd century rabbi. She told us a Talmudic tale and charmed the group. Unfortunately for her and for the group, she is quite hoarse and I worry that tomorrow she may be rendered mute. I better start studying the itinerary in closer detail.

From Tziporri we traveled to Acco, a town with a very long and ancient history. We wandered through some very old streets and alleys in a predominantly Arab area. Ya’ara led us to a famous mosque where we looked from the outside at the beautiful architecture. We walked through an old Turkish bath – now a museum. Finally, we trekked through a short tunnel, to come out to the beautiful Acco coast. It was a breathtaking view, and a perfect final stop of the day.

Day 1 part 2

2005-12-21T08:26:00.000-08:00

Just to finish up the first day.
Upon our arrival at Dan Carmel (after a quick stop at the Dan Panorama -- nice place, wrong hotel), we found that our bags would be unloaded and delivered to our rooms, which was a nice touch at the end of a long trip. Our first communal dinner was in the Rondo Room, which overlooks the Haifa harbor. The Dan Carmel may be a bit long on the tooth, but the view is spectacular.
We all headed back to our rooms, well fed, exhausted and ready for a new day of discovery.

Day One -- or is it Day Two? Part One

2005-12-20T21:41:00.000-08:00

We are here! Tired but so excited, nonetheless. We arrived at Ben Gurion Airport and were treated to a most remarkable Hanukkah present: a brand new, state of the art, gorgeous terminal. It is spacious, well lit, with lots of glass and enough duty free possibilities to tempt us to get to the airport a day early!

We were greeted by a representative of our tour company who herded us to all the appropriate places. In no time at all, we had our buses, our group together, and our sanity, too. Not bad for a bunch of Jewish folks who hadn’t slept in a day… And special kudos go to Lisa and John’s three boys. Our youngest travelers, they were absolutely terrific through it all.

Our bus is a big vehicle; not too many fancy gizmos on board, but ok. The driver is a Sephardic guy (we’ll be hearing his story soon, no doubt). It is HIS BUS. His name is painted on the bumper, so you know it. David is my age and has slightly more hair than I do and a very grey pony tail (I do not have a pony tail…).

As we drove off to Haifa, our first destination, our tour guide, Ya’ara offered us delicious dried fruits, a part of the bounty of Israel’s harvest. We ate the sweet fruits and listened to Israeli music… and we were happy, exhausted, but happy. I looked at the group on the bus and I was so touched: we're here, really here, and all of ready for an unbelievable, unique adventure. More soon.

Milan: almost there

2005-12-19T23:53:00.000-08:00

Yeah! It looks like we all made it!!
Everyone seemed to find the right gate at the right time and we celebrated our arrival at the gate in Logan with a good drink at holiness and a feast on chicken wings and chicken fingers. The comfort and conviviality all suggest that we are going to really have a great experience. At this point we are in the group formation stage; sometimes we glom together and other times we go off as individuals and family units. This is a part of the joy of traveling on this tour: the opportunity to both do one's own thing AND learn more about the community we create by just being together.
There's wifi everywhere... Even in the Milan airport. We arrived here after a completely uneventful flight on Alitalia: a Greyhound bus with wings. The food was mediocre at best and the seating was like the back seat of a Gremlin. But now, looking out the window of the Milan airport at the snow covered Alps in the distance, I have no need to be cranky.
I have no idea what time it is. My clock says 3am Tuesday, and the clock on the wall says 9am Milan time. And me? I am balanced between the 2 times with the knowledge that I am about to board another Alitalia flight for 3 hours. Oh well, I know that the end result will be the dream. And now I must move because it's time to check in at the gate... And there's a baby SCREAMING her head off and that I don't need.

last night before takeoff

2005-12-18T22:32:00.000-08:00

It's late and I am packed -- mostly. I said most of my goodbyes and tried to tie the knots that must be tied before I go. Do I really need all this clothing? Too much warm stuff? Not ready for rain? who knows? So i'll buy an extra sweater...

Meanwhile I have so much electronic equipment with me that I feel like the guy from the Mission Impossible tv series, Greg Morris (Barney), who always had the tools and the toys. But I gotta have my laptop, ipod, webcam, digital camera, cell phone, etc, etc.

Monday am I'll have some coffee and finish my jobs. and then it's to Logan.

I must say that I am leaving on the wings of a profoundly beautiful weekend. I will describe it -- but not now. I must find my usb cable.

to my illustrious readers I wish you a happy and healthy Hanukkah with lots of light and latkes!

Shalom,
rebhayim

Six days!

2005-12-13T06:38:00.000-08:00

I spoke with our guide yesterday, a serious sounding Israeli named Ya'ara. She has an extensive background in ecology and environmental science and botany. So we will be getting a great insight into the flora and fauna of the Jewish State.
Tonight we have a final meeting of the group and I am so excited! This will truly be the trip of a lifetime. Stay tuned.

rebhayim

counting down

2005-12-09T10:57:00.000-08:00

10 days and counting.

Getting Ready

2005-12-07T21:34:00.000-08:00

We've been talking about this trip for a year, planning, replanning, adding this, eliminating that. Jon Bamel has been relentless with our tour company, making sure we were getting the best of the best. And now suddenly it's time to pick a big suitcase and start filling it up.
What to wear in December in Israel? It's all about layers. I checked the weather and saw that it's been pretty warm throughout the country, but, realistically, we could be in chilly winds, rain, even some snow -- and then go swimming in Eilat...
But it's a luxury to have a worry like what to wear...
The best part of the trip for me is that we have many folks for whom this is the first time to Israel. It's such an honor to be facilitating a first time experience! I'll be keeping track of our adventures right here on this blog, so keep your eyes on this spot.
rebhayim